Chaiten to Puerto Inginiero Ibanez

After a nice night at Chaiten we continued to head south on Ruta 7. A route through some stunning countryside. Every bend opened to another vista of shear bluffs, snow caped ranges or lakes.

There is a lot of new road works taking place on this stretch. The roading crews hardly held us up at all sending us down the safe side of working equipment, or briefly stopping to check us out as we went past. Lots of waves and a few shouts. The start of the route was concrete and tarseal and the later section hard-packed gravel with a firm surface so it did't slow us up at all.

We rode as far as Villa Amengual arriving about 1530. Having had enough of the rain and cool temps we decided to stop for the night. The village is small with few houses but seemed most were into offering accommodation and restaurant services. Our first queries met with no luck but one pointed up the road 2 doors. Place looked unlikely but we banged on the door regardless. Low and behold we were invited in and met by the proprietress, bedecked in chef bonnet, plate in hand with a LLLarge steak ready for cooking. What more could you ask for? Even got a bed as well!

The steak was excellent and we spent the time talking, between mouthfuls of steak, with couple from Coyhaiqui. Between our limited Spanish and their limited English we had an entertaining time. The couple had just stopped for dinner on their way to spend time in the hot-pools 20 km from Chaiten......ehhh Hot Pools?
Missed those!

The house has no insulation, collapsing floors, and limited heating, but clean. The beds had 5 thick mohair blankets topped by a thick Duvet. I tossed all bar 2 plus the duvet. By morning most were back on!!

It is a popular spot for passing truckers who were banging on the doors at 0130 in morning. the chef would get up, cook them a meal and the truckers would continue on their way.

We left after breakfast in front of the fire. The rain eased 10 km down the road with sun making an appearance. More stunning countryside.

We eventually started moving away from the hills and picked up strong tail winds. Hardly needed to throttle on at all. We missed a turn off and came across a border post with a stern looking guard who quickly told us where to go once he found we were not going Argentina.

 Backtracking 10 km in the howling head wind required getting down behind the screen or put up with the buffetting.
Back on course, tail winds, heading back to the hills and yet more stunning scenery.

We have stopped for the night at Puerto Inginiero Ibanez, a small village on the northern shore of  Lake General Carrera

VILLARRICA to CHAITEN

Villarrica to Chaiten

After two nights at Villarica it was time to move again.

The plan for Wed was to meander through the lakes district with the idea of seeing as much as we could whilst moving South. The weather gods had other ideas! It started raining as we packed up and steadily got heavier.

We rode South past Lago Calafquen, stopping for lunch on the shore of Lago Ranco during a rare break in the weather. A reminder of the Volcanic nature is evident with piles of pumice washed up on the shore.

LAGO RANCO, CHILE

The weather started to close in again so we made a dash for Osorno then back onto Ruta 5 south to Puerto Montt.

We had planned to get to the tourism office to request recommendations on accommodation and info on ferries for the Carratera Austral. After braving the rush hour traffic to get across town the Tourism Office was closed so it was out with the Lonely Planet Guide to track down a Hostel. Not much luck there but did end up at Tren del Sur, a boutique hotel/hostel with secure garage parking for the bikes. Slightly blew our daily budget!

Thursday

Carratera Austral – here we come.

Up earlyish, packed ready to go. The locals all recommend calling into a Copec fuel station for info and road maps for the Carratera Austral. Copec on the other hand say go to the Tourism Office. Damn! Today is a National Holiday and the whole city is closed.

We head south joining Ruta 7 to Coleta La Arena to catch the first of three ferries which connect the road sections. On arrival there was a que of 70 vehicles waiting for the ferry. No ferry in sight so I had time to practice my lousy Spanish on a patient man who spoke some English, badly. Eventually a small 30 vehicle ferry came into view.

CAR FERRY, CALETA LA ARENA to CALETA

We were about vehicle 68 in line and clearly we wouldn’t get on this ferry. I was about to break out the billy when one of the workers drove up and yelled at us to get down to the ferry. OK you don,t have to ask us twice. Apparently bikes always go to the head of the line so they can slot us into the odd space here or there. They squeezed us on the back, raised the ramp and we were off….25 mins to the other side. Swear you were crossing Queen Charlotte Sound. Teto, the deck hand, spoke English and welcomed us aboard, whilst another man who didn’t speak English relieved Ron of some cash for the fare. I was up by the wheel house taking a few photos. Loud banging on the window, from the inside, was the young Skipper getting my attention and inviting me into the wheelhouse. After squeezing in we chatted away about weather, the area and comparisons with New Zealand etc, ignoring the banging on the window, this time from passengers on the outside, trying to warn the skipper he was about to run down a bouy. He explained the bouy had been constantly moving with each high tide and he would get it sometime, but not today.

                               WHO PAYS THE FERRY MAN?

                               Young Bouy Annihilator

Once off the other side we carry on, passing through Hornopiren, (where we should have stopped to catch the next ferry! Thanks Ron), continuing to the end of the road in Hornopiren National Park. Nice ride around the shore edge. We back-tracked to Hornopiren to check on the ferry times. Oops 10:00 am tomorrow. Raining again so opt for another hostel for the night.

    Puente Rio Blanco, Hornopiren Nat. Park

   Outlook from Hornopiren, Chile

Friday.

Up and packed in time to catch the ferry. We met up with 3 Chilean riders on BMW,s doing a 4 day mad sprint Santiago-Chaiten and back via Argentina. (See what we miss in NZ)

The ferry ride from Hornopiren to Leptepu took just over 4 hours in pouring rain. We were assured there were some impressive peaks and sights along the way but not to be viewed today. Plenty of rain and waterfalls to look at! What really made the trip was the number of passengers who approached us to find out where we were from, where we were headed and just general conversation. At leptepu you drive off the ferry in convoy, 40 klm across a headland to the next stretch of  water,  straight onto another ferry for a 25 minute jaunt to Rampa Caleto Gonzalo. From there to Chaiten is about 2 hrs on a road sandwiched by native bush.

TYPICAL VIEW IN THIS PART OF THE WORLD

If we had thought it had been raining hard, we were in for an update as the heavens opened and threw water at us in a spectacular fashion turning or road into a river.

Arriving in Chaiten the sun broke out …typical…to reveal a town still in rebuild mode following the Volcano Chaiten eruption in 2008. The village was buried in volcanic ash and Lahars resulting in all the residents being evacuated to Puerto Montt, and other centres which could accommodate them. Many houses did not survive or have subsequently been condemned. Many residents took the Govt buy-out option and never returned. Residents that did return were frustrated not being able to get stuck in and clean up the mess. In their view those given the task to clean up actually caused more damage. (Sound familiar)

   Chaiten Foreshore used to be at your feet. Now the bay is clogged with ash and debris. (A ferry ramp, off photo to the right, is only be approachable with very high tides)

There are very few accommodation places left and the proprietors have quickly grasped the concept of ‘price gouging’. With it being too wet to tent and no rooms available in town we pondering where to head when one of the Chilean riders pointed us back the way we had come and we found a really nice cabana. Newly built, charging a fraction of the cost in town. We have been plied with home-brew and there is a whole sheep carcass about to be spit-roasted as we speak! Got to go…….,.

  And what of the spuds? You ask. Couldn’t resist it so stopped by an elderly gentleman and pointed at his bag indicating I wanted to empty it. NO chance…95 + ..he legged it and I couldn’t keep up. Funnily enough 20 km later on Ruta 5 there was another spud-runner barrow which must have run a wheel bearing. It was on its side being worked on by 2 mechanics!  I kid you not!! 

29/10/2012

South America Update. Week 1

Ron and I arrived into Santiago International airport last Monday, thrashed our way through the mass of taxi hawkers at the main

door, and caught a bus into Santiago. From there it was another bus to Valparaiso, about 120 klm away on the coast. Then on to our accommodation at Villa Kunterbunt, located in the hills of the Western suburbs.

Valparaiso is classed as a World Heritage Site, with the Port city literally plastered all over the steep hillsides surrounding the Port.

Streets are steep, narrow and often cobbled, crowded with buses – taxis and witless tourists, such as ourselves. The bus and taxi services are to be envied by any metropolitan centre, Waiting time for the correct bus is seconds.

Tuesday was spent getting our bearings and exploring Valparaiso, riding the ascensors (cable cars) and walking for miles looking at the historical sites.

 And what of our bikes? Ship had arrived Sunday .. offloaded by Monday … bikes to be available Wed. Not quite. We had a few more days to spend in Valparaiso and Vina Del Mar, just up the coast. The rest of the time was spent plotting routes and chilling out at the Villa, a 3 storey wooden structure. 4 metre studs and the whole joint in constant need of maintenance. Cheap accommodation.

The owners Martina and Enzo Tesser, were assisting us with the customs/shipping company hassles.

Friday…..Yeehaa we get our bikes by 1200 and start packing.

Saturday morning we are off heading down the coast for Pichilemu. Nice ride through forest/farms with occasional views of the sea. After one or two seaside villages we head back inland to avoid the hassles arriving a Pichilemu late in the afternoon. No camping area or accommodation to be found. A local resident came to our assistance and found us a flat in Punta Lobos a few klm down coast. Fantastic view of the surf beach and quiet surroundings.

Sunday.

Hard to leave such a nice spot but we are already behind so continue south. Start getting onto sandy/gravel roads passing through forests, farms and vineyards. Along one tidal area there were a lot of ponds which we think are used to farm salt in summer. Hit our first river crossing which looked fine but the soft sand river bottom made it hit or miss on whether you got through. The local farmer must wait for people to get stuck. He has a tractor parked just out of site!

So the day was spent riding South through Hualane, Lora, Batuco, where we ended up in the middle of the Sunday Market, then on to Talca. Then onto Ruta 5 to belt our way down to Los Angeles for the night.

On the way into Talca we pulled into a picnic area to check the route through the city. The bikes pulled quite a bit of attention which included a couple of police on Green Honda 250’s. They were over like a shot. Turned out to be good sorts and were determined to take us to dinner and offered beds in their homes if we wanted. Had to decline unfortunately. By the time we had finished chatting there were 6 of them. One spoke English and when they heard where we were heading they gave a full police escort across the city and aimed us at Ruta 5!  Fantastic service! 

Los Angeles. We stayed at the Hotel Antilen, hostel type accommodation, almost in the city centre for virtually nothing which also included breakfast.

Monday. 

Got away late from Los Angeles, heading up the Rio Bio Bio valley. You could be driving up any New Zealand West Coast valley except on a grander scale. Great scenic ride with one false turn up an access road to a new dam project which appears to be set to flood a large portion of the valley. We got turned away from the entrance, but if my Spanish is correct, it was something to do with not being able to carry a 15 ton boulder. We turned around, and followed a new road up the valley. Unfortunately the loop we had planned was foiled by the dam project so had to retrace our route out of the valley. Got back on Ruta 5 and raced for Villarrica, in the Lakes District. Villarrica is situated on a large lake with a replica of Mount Egmont in the background.

Here we stop for a day or two.

Curious things you see traveling!

Wherever we go if you have a bicycle, wheel barrow, cart / pram you must carry one or two bags of potatoes??? Ruta 5 - man with barrow + bag of spuds making a dash across the traffic. 20 klm later a lady + barrow off-loading bag of spuds between road barriers to retrieve barrow. I’m thinking there has to be more to it than just the humble spud!! I would really like to tackle one of these people just to empty the bag and see what else is in there!!

Bye for now. Gordon