Northern Chile - To Santiago via Argentina

Arica - Iquique-Antofagasta-Copiapo-Argentina to Santiago

After a good catch up, rest wise, and chat about NZ with Ross it was time to get going.

From Arica to Copiapo, some 1300 km and 2 1/2 days, is a relatively boring ride. The highway follows the same desert plateau broken with the occasional ravine eroded through the underlying gravel layers. After Iquique the scenery changes to sea on the right and barren hills on the left. OK so it is a surfers paradise on the right. Only short surf breaks thou due to depth. They anchor full size cargo vessels here within 400 meters of shore. You do have to put up with an over-powering stench of Guano.

Traffic is light consisting mainly of trucks and with little variation in scenery the option is to follow the locals example, open the throttle while watching the fuel gauge drop and  checking the GPS for the distance to the next fuel dump.

The drawback to constant scenery and speed is an increase in risk taking by drivers. In the space of one morning there has been 2 crashed and burnt out vehicles. A tour bus driver who has pulled out into oncoming traffic to pass two trucks and ended up planted in the front of a car. Bus windscreen and driver missing! A light truck, either forced off-road or driver sleeping has rolled out into the desert. Road-toll 20,000 potatoes mashed or left to bake in the sunshine beside the truck remnants. And later, a car which has appeared to get out of control on a straight stretch of road and rolled. The accident site was well attended with Police and other ambulance staff so I can only hope for the best for the accident victims. Hats off to the Police and Ambulance staff worldwide who have to attend these accidents.

From Antofagasta I tried to follow route 1 on down the coast. But the road soon turned to a rock coastal track which meant backtracking to join route 5 and more desert with a Mars landscape. Just check out the Mars Rover photos. (Must be the place the wee green men from mars came to take photos which they later held up in front of the Mars Rover cameras. OK so the desert is getting to me!)

Desert Art

From Copiapo my intended route over  Paso de Penal Negra to Argentina, had to be shelved. I could not get any reliable information re whether there was a border control there. Rather than get there just to turn around and come back I headed south for another high-speed run to La Serena.

Then it was back into interesting terrain following a river valley to the East and over Portezuelo del Aqua Negra into Argentina..

From La Serena heading East you enter a fertile valley almost overrun with vineyards. As you climb higher the vineyards finally end and it is rock walls. The border post is about 78 km short of the actual border and pass, and a further 160 km from the pass to the Argentine Border post located at Los Flores.

The route climbs to about 15500 feet with amazing scenery. High altitude glacier fields and with the road cut through permanent ice. Colours and terrain are spectacular.

I stopped the night in Rodeo, at a great sheltered camp ground, joining  3 German adventure riders on their way to Uruguay and 2 Swiss riders taking there time heading North  one town at a time. They do not cover more than 150 -200 km at a time.

Summer has arrived in Argentina with the temperatures soaring. On Ruta 40 south to San Juan I got absolutely baked. I stopped early at a hostel in the middle of San Juan to get some respite from the heat. No good … the whole city was baking and I was still sitting on the roof terrace with most of the guests at 0230 in the morning trying to get cool.

Next day it was on down Ruta 40 to Mendoza, a hook right through a national park and over the pass back into Chile. The Border post is a joint run affair with Argentina and Chile. They are obviously expecting the summer rush to start with a large number of kiosks set up to process immigration, police, Ag and customs requirements. OK if you are in a car, but when you first arrive you are handed most of the forms in one lump.

Its freezing ,…the wind is blowing 25 KPH…, you have to remain outside the kiosks and somehow fill in all these forms without having to chase them back to Argentina. You then work your way, on bike, past these kiosks with blacked out windows and hand over the ever so slightly mangled forms.

If you have ever seen those wind-up boxes where you place a coin on top, then a hand comes out of the box and grabs it…that’s how these kiosks work. The catch is you have to be ready when the hand tosses the paperwork back!

As it was it took an age and eventually I got sent back to Argentina to get a Chilean temporary import number for the bike…..don’t ask!!!

The fun side was getting away from the border onto some marvelous switch backs. An added bonus for me as the last fuel station the GPS faithfully told me was there had vanished so I was very low on fuel. Coasting downhill through the switchbacks for 25 km certainly helped make it to the next station. Great tunnels as well.

Then it was onto Santiago, Rush Hour and a GPS the does not recognize the one-way system and tried to put me through a shopping mall. Talk about adventure riding!!

Even got to ride past the intended hotel 3 times before taking a short-cut and accidentally ending up in the underground park of the very hotel I was trying to get to.

Magic when things come together!

Chivay - Arequipa and on to Chile

Chivay to Arequipa.

Sun 16 DEC

Early start this morning to get to on down the Canyon to the Condor viewing site. We arrived about 07:00 and joined a small group of people patiently waiting for the Condors to start soaring. The Condors had other ideas. Mainly to stay hidden until some thermal activity started so they could get some lift. In the meantime it was, “watch the idiot tourists”. Unfortunately it was cool and still with no wind or thermals, so after entertaining the hidden Condors for 2 hours we decided to go.

The road ran on down the valley heading in the direction we wanted so on we went. The road was asphalt as far as Cabanaconde. We roared into the village, the asphalt disappeared, and we followed the most worn route taking us to the town square, where we puttered as quietly as possible through the open-air church service. OOPS.

Time for coffee, so parking outside a hostel/café we were accosted by a group of Aussie and English backpackers. Usual banter ensued!

After a suitable period we carried on, back through the church service. Hey, we were following a tour bus and minivan so did not feel so bad. Anyway following the local directions we kept the towns folk, not at the service, entertained trying to find our way out of town.

Eventually back on track we headed for Huambo, the next village on route. The road started as hard packed clay/gravel and got softer with signs of recent grader activity. The further we went the worse it got until we hit the very soft road the graders were working on. Again a huge amount of rain damage. I managed to get crossed up in some truck wheel ruts and shot off the road.

We finally caught up to the work crews who advised the road is a lot worse from here on but it is only for 13 km! We turned around and backtracked to Chivay and on to Arequipa.

As we passed the Condor viewing point a large Condor zipped past and quickly soared to altitude. (mutter mutter) It was pouring with rain by the time we got to Chivay and with the road to Arequipa reaching approx 15500 feet, snow was almost guaranteed. It was snowing at alt. with almost white-out conditions so I followed a tour van staying in his wheel tracks left in the 2 inches of slush. Cold/wet riding conditions all the way to Arequipa.

Arequipa to Chile.

Once away from Arequipa you follow a desert plateau all the way to the Chilean border.

The border crossing was delayed due to the Police not giving us all the paperwork required on entry to Peru which had us being redirected back and forth to get the paperwork sorted. The Peruvian Customs officer finally took it upon himself to doctor up some paper work and get it stamped so we could leave. Great help. Then it was on to Chile immigration and Customs.

After obtaining the appropriate 4 stamps to present to the final entry point we are off. Final entry man says “you are Kiwis”. The good hostel in town is run by a New Zealander. Good enough for us! So here we are in Arica at Hostel Sunny Days run by Ross. (Alastair Harts’ uncle) ( small world!!)

 Here we will stay for couple of days. My machine need tyres and a few minor repairs after the off-road excursion plus it is time for a break.

Wed 19 DEC

Ross has been a great help tracking down people to undertake the necessary repairs. The only bike parts shop in town had six tyres total in stock. One the size required, so we are back up and running again.

Had time to visit the wharf area which has fish markets and seafood restaurants a plenty. Having made a suitable test sampling of the local product it was time for a boat tour around the harbour. The area is overrun with Pelican and seals. Easy pickings alongside the fish markets must add to the population of seals within the harbour zone. Any area the seals can find to beach themselves is used, including large bouys in the harbour entrance used by fuel tankers.

Also in port was a large cruise-liner. Local prices took a sudden hike, so it paid to be careful where you spent your cash. One block from the main-street, and prices dropped.

Off south tomorrow.

Cusco to Chivay, Peru

Cusco to Chivay, Peru

Abancay lies approx  200 km West of  Cusco. The map shows nice straight roads, however reality is once away from Cusco you climb over one ridge after another covered with switch-backs. You would see a small village in the valley below but take over half an hour to reach it.

After stopping in Abancay for the night it was off onto the back-roads heading for Ayacucho. We were soon onto gravel roads climbing to high altitudes and running well until it started raining. Looks like it has been quite wet around here in recent past as the road surface had already been turned to mud by passing vehicles.

We ploughed on through for another 100 km only to be stopped by Police at Andahuaylas with the words “No Passe”.  After some discussion it was clear only road-work vehicles and local traffic were allowed through due to extensive road works following damage from heavy rain and road reconstruction. We would have to go back. Not a prospect I looked forward to.

However! When they finally realized we were New Zealanders, and not from Brazil??? they were straight onto their phones and we were cleared through the road works as far as Chincheros, about another 100 km away. There was almost non-stop road rebuilding all the way. Surfaces varied from mud to rough rock, to deep shingle and hard packed clay but the message must have gone down the line as we were whistled with only brief stops here and there.

As it turned out we got further than expected ending up at another “No Passe” barrier at Ocros. We joined a long line of trucks also waiting to get through.

We had an hour to wait. The nearby Restaurant did a roaring trade. We were given quite a bit of ribbing from the truckies, Who pointed out the huge black thunderstorm developing ahead of us and offered to put our bikes in the back of the truck and drive us through to Ayacucho.

We should have taken the offer! It was getting dark and the truckies fired us up the opened road first but we only made it as far as the next village when the storm let loose. I had spotted a “Hospitaje” sign up a side street, so in the torrential down pour we made a dash back. The elderly shop keeper had two rooms up stairs and we were offered the one the rain was not actually pouring through the tiles! Rough as… but dryish. We did get to admire the water flowing under the partition and across the floor.

We spotted the local restaurant acting as the road workers canteen and wandered on in. For 5 Sole we had a huge bowl of soup and plate of rice with steak and potatoes. More then we could eat. Everyone who passed us came and introduced themselves, had a chat, then wandered on.

Next morning, fine and clear we went back for breakfast. Another huge meal for 5 Sole, then off down the road 800 m to road barrier with words “No Passe” yet again. The storm brought down more slips and might be clear by midday. Only 4 ½ hours to wait. Good for there word we were away at midday and arrived in Ayacucho a couple of hours later.

Travelling north on more back-country roads was shelved. The decision reinforced by another adventure rider coming from that direction covered head to toe in mud. We headed for the coast down more amazing, endless switch-backs and climbing to just over 15800 feet on one pass. Snow and cold.  We stopped at a small settlement, mainly to warm up and have something to eat at a local restaurant surrounded by trucks.. I work on the theory if there are truckies crowding a restaurant the food is generally good value. Worked so far! Turned out to be a hotel as well ..great!

Thus 13 DEC

It was quite a contrast heading from the highlands to the coast. Initially everything is at around 14500 feet and just barren rock. 

    Peru at 14500 feet

Yet there are still people living there trying scratch a living. As you decent to the West more and more land is put to use growing maize, fruit, potatoes  etc then further west the ridges and hills dry out living only narrow valley bottoms with irrigation able to grow anything. Then proceeding West it’s massive sand dunes changing to rocky wasteland as you near the coast.

Of down the Coast stopping for lunch on the beach at something called the Asia Club then on to Camana for the night in an empty hostal.

                                             The Asia Club

Fri 14 DEC

Nothing really to report. It was just a mad drive to Via Nazca , (a brief stop to see some lines in the Desert)- Arequipa and onto Chivay for a couple of nights and possible visit Colca Canyon to view the Condors.

Apart from being ripped off with the 70 sole tourist tax for driving on a main road that runs through a National Park, Chivay a tidy tourist center with a large number of hostals and small basic hotels. Given the number of tourist buses headed this way I expected Chivay to overrun and accommodation hard to find, but there are hardly any tourists here at all. Most appear to do day trips from Arequipa.

The usual tourist artesan shops and with no tourists about there are some bargains to be had.

The walk only area sports a number of life-size statues of various characters. I have yet to find out whom they represent.

Puno- Cusco and Machu Picchu

Tuesday 4 December.

Only a short ride today, to Puno. 

Hey driving practices are just as bad here and speed limits really slow.

It was interesting just trundling along past the 300 meter dogs looking at the various farming practices and use of the arable land next to the lake. No fences to be seen anywhere with small plots of land ploughed by cow drawn plough. Immediately next to that would be small herds of animals, often mixed, with either a family member or dogs left to keep them from wandering off. Hence the 300 meter dogs, which was about the frequency dogs were stationed along the road edge to keep the stock in check. Some were tied up but most just sat there.

If you want to move your stock and not have them scatter in all directions, well all you do is just tie them all together. Drag he first one, while other family members persuade the rest to follow.

Puno. The largest center on Lake Titikaka.

We managed to find our way into the middle of the city, despite the maddening one way system, and found a reasonable hotel with secure parking just off the central square by accidentally parking opposite while checking our books on suitable accommodation.

There was a lot going on in Puno with bands playing, and plenty of activity on the streets. A large stage was being set up to the side of the square blocking the street to our hotel. We later learned it was a festival to celebrate the police forces. So who was going to object? The celebrations went on till about 2am with fireworks etc. The next day the police, Army, Navy held there parades in the square.

Time for some repairs.

The Tenere headlight mounting frame had succumbed to the severe shakings, broken completely on one side and cracked through on the other. I managed to get it welded by an enthusiastic road-side mechanic. I watched with some concern as he merrily welded the frame with sparks dropping onto the plastic fuel tank!

Wed 5 December.

Time to be a tourist!

The Hotel had a resident travel agent who booked a half day tour of the floating reed islands on Lake Titikaka, a trip worth doing.

Ours was a bit of a comedy show. After being collected from the Hotel, run all over town, picking up other members of our party, we were deposited at the local port and lead to a “really good boat” which appeared to be in need of repairs. After braving the odds, stepping over the other boats barged together, we all seated ourselves while Capitan explained to our guide all was not ready. He was busy bucketing water, priming the engine cooling system. The engine started and we were under way with the intrepid Capitan hanging out the window checking water was passing through the cooling system. Nope! 400 meters from the jetty, engine off, we floundered around while Capitan made appropriate beating noises from down the back. Back he came, engine started and turned off about the time we passengers were about to be asphyxiated by exhaust fumes. Seems he had sucked plastic into the intake and was working to clear it.

Success! On our way. The good boat ‘Faulty Tours’ proceeded to weave its way across the Lake. Due to all passengers loaded to the front of the boat, and a very small rudder, it was unable to hold a straight course despite el Capitan throwing it lock to lock.

Once into the reed passage we bounced off either side. The toll takers were obviously used to Faulty Tours arrival  and sensible had a getaway boat set to go should it appear all was lost and they were about to be run down.

How do you stop a boat with no reverse. Why you aim it where you want to go, turn the engine off and ram whatever you aimed at … hopefully. The toll collectors watched calmly as Faulty bounced off the reed bank just short of there hut, and getaway boat, and proceeded to return to the main channel. A toll collector grabbed a line thrown to him and bravely tried to slow Faultys’ pace whilst being bodily dragged along a dwindling reed bank. About the point he was about to experiment with bare-foot water sking, or keel hauling, he let go. The toll must been passed as the engine started - unfortunately dragging the light rope into the prop. Capitan just shrugged and carried on.

Once out of the reed channel into the island area you are the lead, by a pilot boat, to the Island you intend to visit.. Now Faultys’ pace at idle was somewhat faster the Pilots’ tinny leading to first, a close ramming, and then Faulty leading the Pilot boat. Much yelling ensued, the engine shut down and the Pilot taking the lead again.

Circumstance lead to Faulty actually being aimed at the correct Island so El Capitan gave it a spirited handful of throttle. Judging by the alarmed Islanders who were about to have there 6000m2 island moved to the North, a little too spirited!

Needless to say we arrived!  We were thoroughly entertained and educated about the island culture and the reed Islands, with demonstrations given on how the Islands were built and maintained. At this time of year the islands are built up with more reeds to compensate for the expected 1.5 m rise in lake level. We then had the opportunity to take a ride on a reed catamaran, rowed by two Islanders, to the main island. All started well but the wind was picking up and it turned into a real slog for the two rowers.

Then it was back on Faulty to weave our way back to Puno.

 The large dark block below the green reeds is a large mass of reed root system. once cut free of the lake bed it floats and is used to make the bulk of the Island  mass.

Accommodation is basic but livable.

 

 Part of the biggest Island in this group. Tin roof - cafe and "international coffee" they assure me.

Thurs 6 DEC

 The hotel travel agent seems to have “friends” everywhere. On hearing we were heading for Cusco, plus our intention to visit Machu Picchu, he contacted his friends, arranged a hotel with parking 5 mins walk from the central square in Cusco at a remarkable good price. He then had his other travel agent friend in Cusco organize a City Tour and a day at Machu Pichu. Again all was arranged for a remarkable fair price.

All we had to do was get to Cusco.

The original intention was to stay off the main route exploring some of the back roads. We received advise the back-roads were it poor condition after recent rains so not such SSgood option. Main road it was, with heavy traffic and suicide drivers becoming the norm. The road principally follows cultivated river valleys dotted with numerous small settlements.

Arriving at Cusco about 1700 was a real eye opener. The traffic was chaotic.. Three lanes of traffic all trying to cut each other off, and taxis trying to push us out of the way. We made it to the central square and our Hotel after a lot of misdirection. Phew!

Fri 7 DEC

At last….a sleep-in then time to explore the city center. Cusco is a tourist hospot which the city centre caters for with plenty of cafes/restaurants/bars, Artisan shops and dozens of travel agents ready to relieve you of your cash.

The afternoon city tour takes in the city Cathedral and Inca ruins within and outside the city limits. Outside the city 4 sites are visited, the most remarkable, Sacsaywaman, is an excellent example of Inca construction in local stone. See photos.

Sat 8 DEC

Groan..no sleep-in today. 04:00 start. Taxi, train and bus to Machu Picchu.

We arrived at the Machu Picchu site about 09:00 after a bus ride from Aguas Calientes. Aguas Calientes is situated in a deep gorge below Machu Picchu.  

After a 2 hour guided tour we were left to explore at will. We have all seen the iconic photos of Machu Picchu but until you see it for yourself you do not appreciate how extensive the ruins are or the spectacular site selected to build the sacred city. It is situated on a ridge between a mountain range, and a single mountain, with massive drop-offs on either side. The original paths to enter and leave the city are equally spectacular.

Here are a few photos’ but you need to see this for yourselves.

 Inca Bridge

 Come a third down from the top of the Photo. The thin vegetation line running across the photo was the trail one trail out of Machu Picchu.

Salar de Uyuni to Puno, Peru

Plan for today!

 Ride across the Salar de Uyuni and on to Oruro. 260 km+/-.

After taking to the hotel owner it was clear the route on the Salar out to the Isle de Cactus was ok but there were possible soft areas to the north.

But first, fuel. Oops, no fuel at first station or the second station. We parked on the forecourt and contemplated our options. The attendant indicated no fuel until manana. However I noted he waved away a taxi while we were sitting there. We were joined by a truckie and a Swiss gentleman with a 4wd also looking for fuel. When it was clear we were not going to leave he flagged in a taxi which lead to more taxis turning up. They obviously keep a commercial transport reserve. He finally decided to give us fuel at the “tourist” rate. Over three times the going rate. He had us park away from the forecourt, waited until no-one was about then flagged us in one at a time to top up and get off the forecourt. We had fuel!

Off to the Salar. At the edge were teams of men shoveling salt onto large trucks and there were evident wet areas. A worker came over and gave the info we needed to get started.

Under way on the hard salt pan, knowing you were heading for a small island somewhere in the middle, was eerie at first but zipping along at 100 kph  on the white expanse seemingly getting nowhere was quite an experience. After the first 15 mins there was a building and stand of flags.

Some commercial guys asked where we were headed, looked at our plan, and assured us the entire route would be hard and dry. Yeehaa!

It took another 30 mins before the Isle de Cactus appeared over the horizon and another 30 mins before we arrived.

The Island is covered with Cuctus, hence the name, some est. at 2000 yrs. We stopped at the leading edge for photos before heading around a headland and put the billy on.

It’s now the illusion of being completely alone is shattered and we had lunch at the Island restaurant. There was quite and international gathering and we plus bikes became the center of attention, briefly. Talking to one of the guides we pointed out our intended route to the north and a road leaving the Salar on our map. He informed us he had never found that road, hmm. We took off on a direct line and found the road off the Salar, albeit through a short soft section.

What an experience!

Well we got off the Salar. No roads showing on the GPS so we followed a number of extremely rough goat trails to east through a number of small villages. This lead to a larger goat trail which happened to be a major route given the number of buses we passed. It was dark when we hit highway one to Oruro. We met a number of Army and Police check-points on the way.

Monday 3  December.  Oruro – La Paz – border crossing at Desaguadero, Lake Titikaka.

Lethal driving tactics, overloaded diesel belching trucks, and plastic rubbish everywhere. Not too inspiring and you learn quickly motorbikes have nil rights.

La Paz …… don’t bother!!!

We were singled out by a corrupt Police check-point just short of the border crossing, We were taken aside, all documents inspected and after carefully selecting the back of a customs document the head offender put a stamp on the back of it and held out a bucket for the “Donation”. The document is conveniently surrendered to customs so you do not get to keep the evidence. We crossed into Peru and stopped the night on the edge of Lake Titikaka. 

Tuesday 4 December.

Only a short ride today to Puno. Hey driving practices just as bad here and speed limits really slow. Found our way into the middle of the city, and found a reasonable hotel with secure parking just off the central square.

San Pedro de Atacama to Uyuni

San Pedro de Atacama to Uyuni

A spare day spent in San Pedro. I checked out the local museums while Ron went and bounced round the desert in a van.

Next morning it was tank up and off again. The aim to head to Uyuni, Bolivia via Calama and on up route 21.

It was only 100 km to Calama where we topped off the fuel again. We had been assured there was no fuel between Calama and Uyuni about 400 km away. No problem for the Tenere which only hits reserve about then.

The route out of Calama started as tarseal which soon changed to a dirt surface mixed with salt that sets solid. Fine until trucks start breaking up the surface. Where they break through completely it turns into a large sand pit. Any road works you get diverted around through more deep sand patches. Quite a workout for we fellas from sea-level! We spent the day between 3000m – 4000m. Did manage to flounder with the Tenere on a really deep uphill section where trucks had been getting stuck. Well buried it on its side. Getting the bike out on my own was a task and a half – someone flogged all the oxygen!

The road got worse as we approached the Bolivian border.

On the bright side the Atacama desert and upper areas present an amazing array of  landform from massive scree slopes, barren desert of multi colour soils, Salt Lakes ( Salars) and mountains which leave you in no doubt you are in a Volcanic zone. 

At the Boliivian border the Argentine contingent happily booted us out with a stern warning our papers ended here??. The Bolivian team is in 3 or 4 buildings spread either side of a major railway line. Perhaps we should have got and inkling of the speed processing happens by the Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid era train still parked waiting to get through. The truckies, who were also piled up --- waiting --- pointed us in the right directions. We spent 40 mins running back and forth like headless chickens getting docs processed and stamped then onto the Aduana (customs) for the bikes. Now the Bolivian Aduana have a motto “Efficiency and Transparency”.  Those boys have it down to a fine art! As we approached the office they efficiently became transparent and vanished..for 2 hours!!

We sat around in what shade there was and tried to stop the ultra-violet rays turning our eyeballs into an evening meal.

The customs may have been away for longer except an army team arrived to collect a convoy of trucks. They gave customs 15 mins before going out fully armed to track him down.

On to Uyuni. From the border to Uyuni, 190 km, the road was much the same, rough. The terrain was also similar, apart from one section passing through a huge rock-garden. We eventually arrived in Uyuni absolutely stuffed, passing the fuel station where we made the mistake of not filling up. We headed straight into town and found a hotel with secure bike parking and crashed for the evening.