Chivay to Arequipa .
Sun 16 DEC
Early start this morning to get to on down the Canyon to the
Condor viewing site. We arrived about 07:00 and joined a small group of people
patiently waiting for the Condors to start soaring. The Condors had other
ideas. Mainly to stay hidden until some thermal activity started so they could
get some lift. In the meantime it was, “watch the idiot tourists”.
Unfortunately it was cool and still with no wind or thermals, so after
entertaining the hidden Condors for 2 hours we decided to go.
The road ran on down the valley heading in the direction we
wanted so on we went. The road was asphalt as far as Cabanaconde. We roared
into the village, the asphalt disappeared, and we followed the most worn route
taking us to the town square, where we puttered as quietly as possible through
the open-air church service. OOPS.
Time for coffee, so parking outside a hostel/café we were
accosted by a group of Aussie and English backpackers. Usual banter ensued!
After a suitable period we carried on, back through the
church service. Hey, we were following a tour bus and minivan so did not feel
so bad. Anyway following the local directions we kept the towns folk, not at
the service, entertained trying to find our way out of town.
Eventually back on track we headed for Huambo, the next
village on route. The road started as hard packed clay/gravel and got softer
with signs of recent grader activity. The further we went the worse it got
until we hit the very soft road the graders were working on. Again a huge
amount of rain damage. I managed to get crossed up in some truck wheel ruts and
shot off the road.
We finally caught up to the work crews who advised the road
is a lot worse from here on but it is only for 13 km! We turned around and
backtracked to Chivay and on to Arequipa .
As we passed the Condor viewing point a large Condor zipped
past and quickly soared to altitude. (mutter mutter) It was pouring with rain
by the time we got to Chivay and with the road to Arequipa reaching approx 15500 feet, snow was
almost guaranteed. It was snowing at alt. with almost white-out conditions so I
followed a tour van staying in his wheel tracks left in the 2 inches of slush.
Cold/wet riding conditions all the way to Arequipa .
Once away from Arequipa
you follow a desert plateau all the way to the Chilean border.
The border crossing was delayed due to the Police not giving
us all the paperwork required on entry to Peru which had us being redirected
back and forth to get the paperwork sorted. The Peruvian Customs officer
finally took it upon himself to doctor up some paper work and get it stamped so
we could leave. Great help. Then it was on to Chile immigration and Customs.
After obtaining the appropriate 4 stamps to present to the
final entry point we are off. Final entry man says “you are Kiwis”. The good
hostel in town is run by a New Zealander. Good enough for us! So here we are in
Arica at Hostel
Sunny Days run by Ross. (Alastair Harts’ uncle) ( small world!!)
Here we will stay for
couple of days. My machine need tyres and a few minor repairs after the
off-road excursion plus it is time for a break.
Wed 19 DEC
Ross has been a great help tracking down people to undertake
the necessary repairs. The only bike parts shop in town had six tyres total in
stock. One the size required, so we are back up and running again.
Had time to visit the wharf area which has fish markets and
seafood restaurants a plenty. Having made a suitable test sampling of the local
product it was time for a boat tour around the harbour. The area is overrun
with Pelican and seals. Easy pickings alongside the fish markets must add to
the population of seals within the harbour zone. Any area the seals can find to
beach themselves is used, including large bouys in the harbour entrance used by
fuel tankers.
Also in port was a large cruise-liner. Local prices took a
sudden hike, so it paid to be careful where you spent your cash. One block from
the main-street, and prices dropped.
Off south tomorrow.
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