Salta - Paso Sico - San Pedro de Atacama

Salta – San Antonio de los Cobres

Plan was to collect our bikes at 08:30 and head for Paso de Sico. However the work had not been completed on BMW so wait is the only option. We eventually set sail at 11 revising the plan to go as far San Antonio de los Cobres, the last place we can get fuel.

The route, once away from city, runs through arable farm land then tracks a wide shingle river-bed, and narrow-gauge railway line, for some distance before climbing into the hills. The climb tops out at 4079m before dropping down to los Carlos, an Andean hill town. Altitude 3779 masl! Yep we have inadvertently decided to stop in the second highest urban area of Argentina. The railway also runs through Los Cobres and on into Chile.

                                need to watch the local traffic

Los Cobres was a little higher than we would like for an overnight stop, but apart from feeling light-headed, while walking around town, alls well. To reduce altitude would mean riding back towards Salta. The Tourist Information Office directed us to a fine hostel at the Western Edge of Town.The town itself supports 5000 people within the local area and apart from a few new buildings the majority of the town is adobe brick or block construction. New dwellings seem to be the preserve of army and Govt. officials.

28 Nov

We have come to San Antonio de Los Cobres to use it as a kick-off point to cross Paso Sico and back into Chile. The alternative would be to head north and take a tarsealed route to San Pedro de Atacama, but where is the adventure in that? I had heard the gravel road on the Argentine side of the pass was very sandy.

Leaving Los Cobres you are almost immediately in a steep climb up switch-backs to just on 4000masl. The road from there to the pass and on to San Pedro is the most memorable I have ever completed. Spectacular scenery and altitude combine to make a heady experience. The road to the pass is gravel with massive, bone-rattling corrugations, interspersed with sand pockets so the speeds were way down, but as there were photo opportunities everywhere you look, who is going to travel fast through here? After 150 k the Argentine Border post came into view, situated off to the side of Salar del Rincon.

At first I could not tell if anyone was there. The place appeared to be closed up but after I discovered the if you push the door hard enough to shift there patent door latch (a very large boulder) you were in. Processed, in 20 minutes, and under way to the Chliean Border post. That had to be the roughest section of road yet. Anything over 20k and you could not focus!

On arrival, I was stunned to see a Japanese gentleman sitting contemplating the scenery. Next to him was a foldaway push bike with 20 inch wheels towing a small trailer with 8 inch wheels. Now the curious thing about the Chilean Border post is they have Ag official and others that record you passport and intentions but the Customs and Immigration actions are carried out in San Pedro de Atacama, some 200k inside Chile. The gentleman had not realized he needed to sort customs and immigration requirements before leaving San Pedro, spent 3 days pedaling to the border post without the appropriate stamp in his passport, and had been waiting 3 days for a car to come past so he could return for the stamp.

Some people may know him. He cycled around NZ in 2007 using the same rig.

We encountered larger pockets of deep sand before the road hardened into a reasonable surface and a graded section. After one sand section I had stopped for photos. A roading company ute stopped to let me know the rider behind me had crashed in the sand. He soon appeared on the horizon, still covered in sand. No real damage done.

The rest of the ride was just magic. I got well ahead of Ron to pick a lunch spot and put the billy on. I did and Ron appeared, went past and kept going?? Well I had tea and soup in the most stunning lunch spot ever next to Salar ---------.

    Best lunch spot ever.  LAGUNA TUYAITO

Then on to San Pedro de Atacama for 2 nights.   

San Carlos de Bariloche to Salta

With no WIFI opportunities over the past few days I am definitely behind with blog updates. We are now over nighting in Salta while the Yamaha dealers fit my sprockets and a new chain. A chance to update the blog.

San Carlos de Bariloche – Chos Malal, Argentina

The entry into Bariloche is not too impressive as you drive past the poorly managed city dump. Debris and plastic bags for miles. The city center is nicely set out looking out over the lake. After that is just a mass of urban sprawl and unpaved streets. Bariloche has also been smothered in volcanic ash. About 7cm fell on the town after the last eruption and a lot is still present. Looks like grey sand.

We shot away next morning following a road to the west through Nahuel Huapi Nat. Park before turning north again towards San Martin de Los Andes. You run through the foothills, past lakes, making for a scenic ride.

                               Note Grey ash

Once back on route 40 it was highland desert, interrupted by the odd gully, right the way to Chos Malal.

We stopped the night in the municipal camp grounds. Run down and rough with a lot of curious comings and goings with gear being moved from vans to back offices and vic versa. Kept a close eye on our gear!

Chos Malal – San Rafael

A long drive through the same desert scenery.  The most memorable part was having a Condor follow me as I dropped down out of some foothills. It flew off to one side about 30 meters above and tracked me for about 500 meters down the road. No chance of a photo. It must have decided I was too scrawny to eat and soared off to look for better pickings. They are a large bird with a wing span not far off that of an Albatross.

                                Cacti .. must be in the desert.

                               Some of the land-forms present enroute

We went into San Rafael to try and find a chain for the BMW. No luck. It would have to be Mendoza, a place I wanted to by-pass.

Stopped for the night in the Municipal Camp grounds. Very little sleep had due to wandering dogs barking and howling all night. Again the facilities were run down.

San Rafael - Mendoza - San Juan

We had problems getting fuel. Most fuel stations had not received deliveries so we took off watching our consumption and reserve indicators flashing. We were carrying back-up fuel.

We arrived at Mendoza about midday. The address for the chain was on the far side of the city center, which Ron entered into his GPS and told it to GO THERE. Well it tried but someone needs GPS training as it took has straight through the city in rush hour traffic. The temps were that high we were melting in our bike gear with the bike cooling fans screaming away. A few times I got the glimpse of an elevated motorway that would have taken us to the same destination…grrrr. We made it as far as the city square when the BMW cooling fan seized and it turned itself into very expensive kettle. Heaps of people came to Rons aid while I parked on the pavement and watched some high-school students performing dance routines between changing lights to raise funds for there sports teams. A young chap on a scooter pointed out where the BMW dealer was, saying “it’s easy to get to. You just take that motorway over there!!!!” Back to where we started. He helpfully navigated us through the one-way system onto the motor-way. BMW changed the fan motor then it was all on for another try for a chain.

Eventually the appropriate shop was located. I was in the shop door watching our bikes and got distracted by someone talking to me. A shopkeeper across the road started yelling at us. I assumed his was annoyed at our bikes blocking his shop front. NO his was yelling that a couple of boys has nicked my helmet. The chap I was talking to was off on his scooter like a shot. I ripped off round the block the other way. No luck for me but Daniel caught them 2 blocks away, grabbed my helmet, and issued some quick justice on the spot. At least I had my helmet back, even if I was reluctant to put my head in it after all the heat today.

We had had enough of Mendoza and headed north to San Juan. We stayed in a super tidy guarded camp ground. No dogs barking but we were entertained by students playing tango type beat music on a huge sound system. They were well behaved and no problem at all. The music was quite catchy and you would find yourself tangoing to the shower and back, and foot tapping was irresistible.

San Juan – Chilecito.

What a change. The route takes you through changing land forms and a great bike road. The section from Villa Union to Chilecito is a must do. The original road, still in use, has been blown and hacked through large gorge. Only 3.8 meters wide, twisty, with lots of tight blind bends for a lot of it, so watch out for on-coming traffic and do not make any mistakes on the bends! There is a new road being carved through the same area.

Chilecito is set in the foothills elevated above the desert to the east. It a little like a Wild West town. The surrounding terrain is eroded, steep land. In its heyday it boasted a cable-way which ran from the town, at 1200 masl, to a mine some 40 km  away at a height of 4600 masl. Men and equipment took four hours in a cable bucket to get to the mine. Puts the Denniston incline into perspective!

 

Camped in a small camping area above town for the night. Hey…More music…and a green parrot population that kicked up quite a din at dusk and dawn.

Chilecito – Cafayate

Similar terrain as the previous 2 days until you get closer to Cafayate. The area is far more fertile with sandy soils and irrigation channels to water fields. The town is vibrant tourist hotspot due to the abundance of wineries within walking/cycling distance the town centre. The wines are excellent and cheap by NZ standards. The central square is surrounded by curb-side eateries, cafes and a mini malls/flea markets with local artisans offerings.

The surrounding sandy hillsides have been sculpted by wind and rain to leave remarkable formations.  

   "The Lost Castles "  (zoom in to see people at the base of the castles)

Tues 27Nov.

After a 2 night stop in Cafayate is was off to Salta. This time to fit a chain to the Tenere.

The road is made for bikes running out of Cafayate through gorges and out to green cultivated land towards Salta. 

With photo stops and traffic it took about 3 hours which had us in Salta about 1230. Unfortunately everything closes at 1300 and opens again at 1700. “you will have to leave your bike and come back at 2000.” So we are now around the corner at a backpackers and will collect the bikes tomorrow before making a dash towards the Chile border.  

                                  Cafayate Police demonstrating safe riding practices!

Border hassles and breakdowns

Thursday

Everything has been going smoothly with bikes running well, border crossings very brief formalities and border staff more than helpful.

That all changed today.
We got away from Ushuaia very early so we could put in some distance travelling north before the wind picked up.
All went well for the first 120 km until the rear tyre went flat. A result of a pinched tube finally giving up. We had spares so changed the tube on the side of the road. Every truck going by gave us a toot once we gave them the thumbs up but more entertaining was a Russian on a loaded BMW 1200GS. He was flat out coming around the corner, saw us, and threw out all the anchors to stop. Virtually had the 1200 standing on the front wheel but still overshot by 30 meters. He left the bike parked in the middle of the road, stomped over to us announcing "Allo boys.I am Orloff from Russia! Do you have a pomp!"  I responded yes pointing to my tyre pump he was standing on. "Gut" he replied, climbed back on his steed and disappeared rapidly up the road. We could not get any info from him about where he was headed etc...

Tyre re-inflated we headed for the ARG/CHILE border crossing at San Sebastian. The same crossing we used  3 days ago. Not too sure whether it was because we had come from Ushuaia or just transiting through Chile on the way to Rio Gallegos but we got the real run-around.  All our details are on their computers but no, we had to go through the full formal process of applying for temporary import for the motorcycles with a stern warning the copy had to be given to customs when we left the country. (2 hrs away). All our boxes and bags had to be opened for inspection. Delaying us 1 1/2 hours. We just put it down to making up for all the easy crossing we have had.
So back in Chile and a really hard-packed, rough gravel section for approx 120 km with cross winds just to give us something else to concentrate on. Back on tar-seal, loud clattering noises were emanating  from low down on the Teneres' engine. Was still running well but what a racket! We did the usual checks on oil, water etc but all OK so on we went. Ferry crossing, nice and calm, on through the Chile/ARG border crossing. Our paperwork seemed to be causing some confusion but all the officials for both countries are in the same room, rather than being separated by 4 to 20 km. We then .had a police check on the way into Rio Gallegos  . They record your passport details and intended movements. While they did that I queried them on the locations of Moto Mechanico. They came out and listened to the bike start, cringed, and raced back inside to draw maps etc. Really helpful group.

We lucked in!! The sent us to the only licenced Yamaha dealership in Southern Argentina! They could look at it tomorrow morning.

Back before opening time waiting for staff to turn up, a gentleman by the name of Eric Rudd appeared from a building across the street. We chatted for some time on the street corner then back in his partners office with coffee etc. Eric is a real character. He claims he is really just a sheep farmer but had leased the farm and is now in town helping his partner . The sheep farm is only 15000 hectares! He offered his services as translator if required. A service we had to make use of later.

                                         Tenere in bits.

The bike issue was not serious and put right in a couple of hours. Unfortunately  the clutch reassembly was rushed and we had clutch slippage as a result. It took some convincing to get the mechanics to strip it and check. Took Erics' interpreter skills to get the point across. Problem sorted.

Saturday

We traveled North up Ruta 3 towards Puerto Santa Cruz. Eric had advised the route was all desert. "It changes height but is still just desert". He was not wrong! It was so boring we headed back inland to pick up Ruta 40 at Gobernader Gregores.

Want to know what South East Argentina just check the photo.

Sunday

We took off early intent in putting a big day. 600 km all up. Our GPS mapping took us up parts of the old Ruta 40, rather than the new tar-sealed route. The last 100km of gravel was deep. Trying to navigate a vehicle swept route was challenging. At times we followed the route other vehicles had been using in a large drain. Good until you came to a fence and had to get back up on the road platform. At one point Ron lost control of the BMW climbing back out the drain and dumped it. The crash protection on the bike did its job and a road crew picked Ron out of the gravel.

      Argentine's answer to New Zealand,s pink and white terraces, Ruta 40 south of Perito Moreno

We stopped for the night at Alto Rio Senguerr, a small village in the middle of nowhere surrounded by a swollen river system. The area looked more like a vast wetland. After all the rough run-down towns we have been through this place is spotless.

Monday

With 7500 km traveled the Tenere was rapidly running out of tread. We were advised the next town had tyres. Nope, the next town. We arrived in Esquel about 13:00. then spent 3 hours being shuffled around town until we eventually found a backyard shop full of tyres. No problem, all sorted.by 19:00.

Tuesday

On to Bariloche. The drive from Esquel to Bariloche takes you back into the hills, beech forest and on to the Argentine Lakes District.

Torres del Paine to Punta Arenas

Sunday

It was difficult to leave Torres Del Paine National park.

Stopping one night and not spending a few days exploring more of the parks hidden jems and trails was disappointing but we have to make tracks south. As the park employee said, we had picked the best day. Not much wind today - only recorded 110 - 120 kph. Next 2 days they were expecting strong winds!!!

So it was time to pack up, wish a group of Belgians in two Landrover campers good luck and set sail for Punta Arenas via Puerto Natales.

The Belgians had been beset with issues in their new rigs. One had major gearbox problems and they were limping their way to Santiago. Only 3500 km to go!

Our bikes have been running like clockwork and tyres holding up well so far. The only negative is the BMW 800 has a small fuel tank which usually runs dry before the Tenere hits reserve. Fuels consumption for both bikes is the same. (22km/litre)

The ride to Puerto Natales was another memorable trip. Great road and scenery. We arrived to hot temperatures and nil wind. Stopped for coffee on the waterfront and took in the view. Also entertaining to watch the tourists and locals checking the bikes and taking photo's.

Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas is fairly ordinary and an introduction to landscape we were to see a lot of  over the coming few days.

Punta Arenas itself is a lively center with plenty to do and see. We booked into the ..................Hostel. Another endeavour with character. The owners arranged off-street parking for the bikes at another establishment a street away, which was fine. We were shown to our room, going around the back, up 2 flights of stairs and entering the roof space where additional bedrooms and kitchens had been fitted. Took a few trips to get all our gear up the Bat loft. Next morning we just threw everything off the balcony.
When fitting out the roof-space for accommodation no thought was given to strengthen the rafters/floor beams. Novel going to the bathroom, where standing outside you could open the door. However you could not close it once inside the bathroom unless you temporarily launched yourself whilst pulling the door to.
The view afforded by such lofty heights was overlooking part of the town out to the straits, oh and the high-rise cemetery across the road!
The up-side was the included breakfast. Best spread we have seen so far!

We spent some time investigating the shopping center, dining etc. The plan for tomorrow is to take a ferry across to Provenir.

Monday

The plans have started to unravel slightly.
Firstly the daily ferry to Provenir, presumable in celebration of our arrival, is not running today. Nor will it operate on Thursday we are informed. So it will be a 170 km ride to the East to catch another ferry across to Puerto Espora. There are 2 ferries that cross every 45 mins.

While packing up Ron mentioned my top-box was moving about more than normal. Closer inspection revealed the rear mount was cracked and required welding. A local service station pointed us at the nearby exhaust shop and arrangements were made to weld a reinforcing plate over the offending cracks.

The "shop", located on a rough pot-holed street, was a dingy shed with a large pit and a lot of hand-made equipment worthy of an iron foundry (or Rons' shed). A gentleman duly appear from the interior, understood what was required and disappeared  into a back room with my top box. Ron and I were entertained for the next hour, standing at the door, watching Ireland beat RSA on the TV, watching the antics of the workers we could see and listening to the beating - grinding and welding noises emanating from the back room. All turned out well in the end and the cost, virtually nothing.

Off to catch the ferry. No mucking around on these Ferries. No sooner has the ramp hit the shore trucks and buses are driving off. Last one off and the waiting traffic drives straight on. All the time the ferry is operating at full trust just to stay in place due to the tidal flow through the channel. You pay once on board. A twenty minute crossing with the bow headed into the tidal flow and side-slipped to the other side.

WELCOME to TIERRA DEL FUEGO
We rode on the the Border post and stopped at a local Hotel.

Tuesday

Through the border crossing in no time at all and on the way to Ushuaia.
Initially the landscape is barren plains gradually changing to scrub type vegetation which develops to full forest cover as you approach Ushuaia.

Ushuaia is in sheltered bay and just hums with activity. The tourist traffic is just starting to pick up with long distance ferries and cruise ships arriving. The Beagle channel is a constant flow of tourist charter boats, along with fishing vessels and the ever present Navy.

The Tourist info office pointed us at a hostel which would have off street parking. We lucked in. The owner, a keen motocross nut and race team supporter, had our bikes in his garage in a flash. We stopped 2 nights to catch up on the necessary maintenance / clothes cleaning etc.

And of course the obligatory photo to prove we made it.

As for Ushuaia, it is an amazing place. If you want to know more start planning your trip.,and allow plenty of time here

El Calafate - Torres del Paine

Saturday

Underway early heading for Torres del Paine Nat. Park.

It was a relatively short 250 km ride to the Argentine/Chile border post just prior the Nat Park.There was some strong wind gusts to cope with but by now that is the norm.

The border crossing was only slowed by the number of tour bus passengers being processed at the same time. Then we were free to travel towards the Park.
After a couple of wrong turns, which conveniently offered some excellent photo opportunities, it was on into the Park proper.
After paying the park fees and receiving advice on what to see, where to camp etc. we carried on.

The mountain peaks are impressive. The photos say more than I can.

 
Last Summer a fire burnt through the Park removing most of the hillside forest and vegetation cover. The spot we decided to camp at is one of the remaining islands left untouched. The bonus for us was the numerous animals and birds which have also retreated to these areas.

 

El Calafate -Perito Moreno Glacier

Friday - Day to be a tourist.

We had a very warm welcome on arrival at Hostel Aves del Lago. The hospitality shown by our hosts has been marvellous. Fabiana and her husband have made sure we have all the info we require and have been genuinely interested in what we were doing.
The flasks of freshly brewed coffee have appeared morning and night which were really appreciated! We felt more part of the family rather than guests. Quite a feat when the hostel was also hosting a large French team of climbers here for 1 1/2 months and a young group from Israel  touring South America.
Fabiana made sure to chat with us prior to our departure, supplying us with useful contacts for when we travel north and presented us an unexpected parting gift.

If ornithology is an interest  this is a perfect place to be. Just across the road is a lagoon bird sanctuary with large variety of birds present. Great action shots to be had if they are flying into the over abundance of wind here. ( if flying down wind forget it! About as much chance as getting a high speed pass of the concord and warp-factor whatever.)

For us It was to be a day off the bikes acting as tourists and time to let someone else drive.
We opted for a bus and boat ride to Perito Moreno Glacier, about 70 km away. Well worth the effort. The boat portion of the trip was on a purpose built catamaran which took you to within 200 meters of the glacier. Directly in front of the area where large chunks of ice break off and instantly become icebergs? hmmm. Some of the ice-cubes about to descend were about four storeys tall. If too close the resulting tsunami it could put a real dampener on your day!

Tomorrow. Its back to Chile and Torres del Paine Nat Park.

Wed 7 November

INTO ARGENTINA

After reading about delays getting through borders we decided to get to the border earlish. So refueled and with all paperwork in hand we arrived at the Chile exit point at 09:15. At 09:30 we were officially kicked out of Chile into no-mans land.

After a few kms we arrived at the Argentine entry point.

Passports and paper work handed over to Immigration and Customs…Where are you headed? Stamp Stamp and we were out of there. Done and dusted in 15 mins. The young customs officers seemed more interested in the bikes and our mods. 

Very straight-forward.

From there it is approx 60 km to Perito Moreno continuing along the south side of Lago General Carrera which has been transformed into Lago Buenos Aires now that we are in Argentina. Of immediate note is the vast improvement of road surface, now a high grade bitumen seal, and a change in landscape from steep hills and peaks to rolling high country plain with grasses and sage type scrub.

    LAGO BUENOS AIRES

Perito Moreno was the breakfast stop. After being warned by virtually everyone we met to buy fuel wherever you see it we topped off the bikes again and set off south on Ruta 40.

Ruta 40 is rapidly becoming a fully paved road. Road works on a massive scale are on going. So the ride south takes you from new seal to diversional side roads which parallel very tempting new seal….Which we just had to try out!!

Even on the side road we had a good run, checking out the 20 k/hr signs as we shot past at 90 – 100.

There was a blustery side wind, but nothing worse than we get in NZ.

Scenery does not vary, so somewhat boring after the first 200km. The local wildlife do tend to keep you awake by erratically diving across the road as you approach.

    

We stopped for the night 420km later at Gorbenador Gregores. A small settlement originally set up as a service town for early travelers. The town appears to be in rebuild mode with many sections cleared and new buildings under construction. We were unable to ascertain whether the rebuild has been induced by natural disaster or local policy to clean up the town. Large cracks in a number of remaining buildings suggest it may be the former.

The main street is adorned with an ancient steam powered tractor and historic type artwork. Also a man on a horse which I believe was the first resident. A European immigrant who set up as a blacksmith. He would repair anything passing by. (shades of Otago Gold Rush days)

Thursday 8 November

Gregores to El Calafate

Underway again. Same scenery with the first 150km all road works.

However just t make it interesting the renowned Patagonia winds put in an appearance. On the raised bitumen road lean angles to remain straight were extreme.

On gravel sections it was not uncommon to be forced from the far right to the far left.

One large tank-slap event occurred but recovered by shear luck and the bike stopped before it launched into a road-works cut for a large culvert.

It was a particularly tiring days ride. The wind chill effect was increasing as we approaching the end of the days ride. When Lago Argentine came into view it was not surprising to see icebergs floating along the shoreline. These possible originate from the Glacier Moreno and blown down the lake. It was good to get to El Calafate for a respite from the wind and a welcome cup of coffee. 

After locating the Visitors center, and ascertaining accommodation options we went to find a bed only to be flagged down by a motorist …. (you looking for a Hostel? We have one on the foreshore)

So here we are in a new hostel, Hostel Aves Del Lago, room to ourselves for Arg$100 (NZ$12.50@). Just sitting at the front window, out of the wind, cup of tea in hand, waiting  for a blue iceberg to cruise past.

Monday 5 November

The weather has really set in with high winds rain and sleet. We have opted to spend another day in our wooden, complete with wood fire, and take the time to create a blog and update family and friends.

                               Smart Dog. Knows the word for food in any language.

Plus it gave us time to catch up on the necessary laundry and bike maintenance. Once done it was a look around the small village, foreshore and check out the missing family link.

   THE MISSING LINK ...the one on the left!

Tuesday

Time to move on regardless of the weather . Tonight we are in Chile Chico just short of the Argentine border  and approx. 20km from where we started on the other side of the Lake. However it has taken us 420km to get here.

The ride started wet/windy but improved to be slightly wet/windy. Rivers were running very high, encroaching on the road. In places only 150mm below the road surface. The combination of traffic and weather had turned the road surfaces into a never ending series of potholes and ripio. The worst effect was oncoming drivers in taking any route to to avoid the larger holes which lead to a number of close calls.

The size and number of waterfalls along the route were impressive. Sorry..no photos due wet conditions.
We traveled around the Western side of the lake to El Maiten. After Ron topped up with fuel we made tracks for Cochrane, a village further South on Ruta 7.
The road from El Maiten - Cochrane is impressive. The road has some impressive climbs up and around river bluffs. A lot of the road is undergoing re-engineering so watch for trucks. No room for error on the
sheer drop-offs.
Roast beef lunch at Cochrane was the order of the day. Briefly interrupted by a blast of wind blowing the Tenere over. With a weather not set to improve we flagged riding to Villa O'Higgins , setting off back up Ruta  7 and around to Chile Chico on the Southern side of Lago General Carrera.

The route round the Southern side of the lake is a long, twisty gravel road and not to be missed. The views of the Lake and ranges beyond are stunning. 124 km went by in a flash.

Tomorrow is goodbye Southern Chile and hello Argentina.