Border hassles and breakdowns

Thursday

Everything has been going smoothly with bikes running well, border crossings very brief formalities and border staff more than helpful.

That all changed today.
We got away from Ushuaia very early so we could put in some distance travelling north before the wind picked up.
All went well for the first 120 km until the rear tyre went flat. A result of a pinched tube finally giving up. We had spares so changed the tube on the side of the road. Every truck going by gave us a toot once we gave them the thumbs up but more entertaining was a Russian on a loaded BMW 1200GS. He was flat out coming around the corner, saw us, and threw out all the anchors to stop. Virtually had the 1200 standing on the front wheel but still overshot by 30 meters. He left the bike parked in the middle of the road, stomped over to us announcing "Allo boys.I am Orloff from Russia! Do you have a pomp!"  I responded yes pointing to my tyre pump he was standing on. "Gut" he replied, climbed back on his steed and disappeared rapidly up the road. We could not get any info from him about where he was headed etc...

Tyre re-inflated we headed for the ARG/CHILE border crossing at San Sebastian. The same crossing we used  3 days ago. Not too sure whether it was because we had come from Ushuaia or just transiting through Chile on the way to Rio Gallegos but we got the real run-around.  All our details are on their computers but no, we had to go through the full formal process of applying for temporary import for the motorcycles with a stern warning the copy had to be given to customs when we left the country. (2 hrs away). All our boxes and bags had to be opened for inspection. Delaying us 1 1/2 hours. We just put it down to making up for all the easy crossing we have had.
So back in Chile and a really hard-packed, rough gravel section for approx 120 km with cross winds just to give us something else to concentrate on. Back on tar-seal, loud clattering noises were emanating  from low down on the Teneres' engine. Was still running well but what a racket! We did the usual checks on oil, water etc but all OK so on we went. Ferry crossing, nice and calm, on through the Chile/ARG border crossing. Our paperwork seemed to be causing some confusion but all the officials for both countries are in the same room, rather than being separated by 4 to 20 km. We then .had a police check on the way into Rio Gallegos  . They record your passport details and intended movements. While they did that I queried them on the locations of Moto Mechanico. They came out and listened to the bike start, cringed, and raced back inside to draw maps etc. Really helpful group.

We lucked in!! The sent us to the only licenced Yamaha dealership in Southern Argentina! They could look at it tomorrow morning.

Back before opening time waiting for staff to turn up, a gentleman by the name of Eric Rudd appeared from a building across the street. We chatted for some time on the street corner then back in his partners office with coffee etc. Eric is a real character. He claims he is really just a sheep farmer but had leased the farm and is now in town helping his partner . The sheep farm is only 15000 hectares! He offered his services as translator if required. A service we had to make use of later.

                                         Tenere in bits.

The bike issue was not serious and put right in a couple of hours. Unfortunately  the clutch reassembly was rushed and we had clutch slippage as a result. It took some convincing to get the mechanics to strip it and check. Took Erics' interpreter skills to get the point across. Problem sorted.

Saturday

We traveled North up Ruta 3 towards Puerto Santa Cruz. Eric had advised the route was all desert. "It changes height but is still just desert". He was not wrong! It was so boring we headed back inland to pick up Ruta 40 at Gobernader Gregores.

Want to know what South East Argentina just check the photo.

Sunday

We took off early intent in putting a big day. 600 km all up. Our GPS mapping took us up parts of the old Ruta 40, rather than the new tar-sealed route. The last 100km of gravel was deep. Trying to navigate a vehicle swept route was challenging. At times we followed the route other vehicles had been using in a large drain. Good until you came to a fence and had to get back up on the road platform. At one point Ron lost control of the BMW climbing back out the drain and dumped it. The crash protection on the bike did its job and a road crew picked Ron out of the gravel.

      Argentine's answer to New Zealand,s pink and white terraces, Ruta 40 south of Perito Moreno

We stopped for the night at Alto Rio Senguerr, a small village in the middle of nowhere surrounded by a swollen river system. The area looked more like a vast wetland. After all the rough run-down towns we have been through this place is spotless.

Monday

With 7500 km traveled the Tenere was rapidly running out of tread. We were advised the next town had tyres. Nope, the next town. We arrived in Esquel about 13:00. then spent 3 hours being shuffled around town until we eventually found a backyard shop full of tyres. No problem, all sorted.by 19:00.

Tuesday

On to Bariloche. The drive from Esquel to Bariloche takes you back into the hills, beech forest and on to the Argentine Lakes District.