VILLARRICA to CHAITEN

Villarrica to Chaiten

After two nights at Villarica it was time to move again.

The plan for Wed was to meander through the lakes district with the idea of seeing as much as we could whilst moving South. The weather gods had other ideas! It started raining as we packed up and steadily got heavier.

We rode South past Lago Calafquen, stopping for lunch on the shore of Lago Ranco during a rare break in the weather. A reminder of the Volcanic nature is evident with piles of pumice washed up on the shore.

LAGO RANCO, CHILE

The weather started to close in again so we made a dash for Osorno then back onto Ruta 5 south to Puerto Montt.

We had planned to get to the tourism office to request recommendations on accommodation and info on ferries for the Carratera Austral. After braving the rush hour traffic to get across town the Tourism Office was closed so it was out with the Lonely Planet Guide to track down a Hostel. Not much luck there but did end up at Tren del Sur, a boutique hotel/hostel with secure garage parking for the bikes. Slightly blew our daily budget!

Thursday

Carratera Austral – here we come.

Up earlyish, packed ready to go. The locals all recommend calling into a Copec fuel station for info and road maps for the Carratera Austral. Copec on the other hand say go to the Tourism Office. Damn! Today is a National Holiday and the whole city is closed.

We head south joining Ruta 7 to Coleta La Arena to catch the first of three ferries which connect the road sections. On arrival there was a que of 70 vehicles waiting for the ferry. No ferry in sight so I had time to practice my lousy Spanish on a patient man who spoke some English, badly. Eventually a small 30 vehicle ferry came into view.

CAR FERRY, CALETA LA ARENA to CALETA

We were about vehicle 68 in line and clearly we wouldn’t get on this ferry. I was about to break out the billy when one of the workers drove up and yelled at us to get down to the ferry. OK you don,t have to ask us twice. Apparently bikes always go to the head of the line so they can slot us into the odd space here or there. They squeezed us on the back, raised the ramp and we were off….25 mins to the other side. Swear you were crossing Queen Charlotte Sound. Teto, the deck hand, spoke English and welcomed us aboard, whilst another man who didn’t speak English relieved Ron of some cash for the fare. I was up by the wheel house taking a few photos. Loud banging on the window, from the inside, was the young Skipper getting my attention and inviting me into the wheelhouse. After squeezing in we chatted away about weather, the area and comparisons with New Zealand etc, ignoring the banging on the window, this time from passengers on the outside, trying to warn the skipper he was about to run down a bouy. He explained the bouy had been constantly moving with each high tide and he would get it sometime, but not today.

                               WHO PAYS THE FERRY MAN?

                               Young Bouy Annihilator

Once off the other side we carry on, passing through Hornopiren, (where we should have stopped to catch the next ferry! Thanks Ron), continuing to the end of the road in Hornopiren National Park. Nice ride around the shore edge. We back-tracked to Hornopiren to check on the ferry times. Oops 10:00 am tomorrow. Raining again so opt for another hostel for the night.

    Puente Rio Blanco, Hornopiren Nat. Park

   Outlook from Hornopiren, Chile

Friday.

Up and packed in time to catch the ferry. We met up with 3 Chilean riders on BMW,s doing a 4 day mad sprint Santiago-Chaiten and back via Argentina. (See what we miss in NZ)

The ferry ride from Hornopiren to Leptepu took just over 4 hours in pouring rain. We were assured there were some impressive peaks and sights along the way but not to be viewed today. Plenty of rain and waterfalls to look at! What really made the trip was the number of passengers who approached us to find out where we were from, where we were headed and just general conversation. At leptepu you drive off the ferry in convoy, 40 klm across a headland to the next stretch of  water,  straight onto another ferry for a 25 minute jaunt to Rampa Caleto Gonzalo. From there to Chaiten is about 2 hrs on a road sandwiched by native bush.

TYPICAL VIEW IN THIS PART OF THE WORLD

If we had thought it had been raining hard, we were in for an update as the heavens opened and threw water at us in a spectacular fashion turning or road into a river.

Arriving in Chaiten the sun broke out …typical…to reveal a town still in rebuild mode following the Volcano Chaiten eruption in 2008. The village was buried in volcanic ash and Lahars resulting in all the residents being evacuated to Puerto Montt, and other centres which could accommodate them. Many houses did not survive or have subsequently been condemned. Many residents took the Govt buy-out option and never returned. Residents that did return were frustrated not being able to get stuck in and clean up the mess. In their view those given the task to clean up actually caused more damage. (Sound familiar)

   Chaiten Foreshore used to be at your feet. Now the bay is clogged with ash and debris. (A ferry ramp, off photo to the right, is only be approachable with very high tides)

There are very few accommodation places left and the proprietors have quickly grasped the concept of ‘price gouging’. With it being too wet to tent and no rooms available in town we pondering where to head when one of the Chilean riders pointed us back the way we had come and we found a really nice cabana. Newly built, charging a fraction of the cost in town. We have been plied with home-brew and there is a whole sheep carcass about to be spit-roasted as we speak! Got to go…….,.

  And what of the spuds? You ask. Couldn’t resist it so stopped by an elderly gentleman and pointed at his bag indicating I wanted to empty it. NO chance…95 + ..he legged it and I couldn’t keep up. Funnily enough 20 km later on Ruta 5 there was another spud-runner barrow which must have run a wheel bearing. It was on its side being worked on by 2 mechanics!  I kid you not!!