With no WIFI opportunities over the past few days I am definitely behind with blog updates. We are now over nighting in Salta while the Yamaha dealers fit my sprockets and a new chain. A chance to update the blog.
San Carlos de Bariloche – Chos Malal, Argentina
The entry into Bariloche is not too impressive as you drive
past the poorly managed city dump. Debris and plastic bags for miles. The city
center is nicely set out looking out over the lake. After that is just a mass
of urban sprawl and unpaved streets. Bariloche has also been smothered in
volcanic ash. About 7cm fell on the town after the last eruption and a lot is
still present. Looks like grey sand.
We shot away next morning following a road to the west through
Nahuel Huapi Nat. Park before turning north again towards San Martin de Los
Andes. You run through the foothills, past lakes, making for a scenic ride.
Note Grey ash
Once back on route 40 it was highland desert, interrupted by the odd gully, right the way to Chos Malal.
We stopped the night in the municipal camp grounds. Run down
and rough with a lot of curious comings and goings with gear being moved from
vans to back offices and vic versa. Kept a close eye on our gear!
Chos Malal – San Rafael
A long drive through the same desert scenery. The most memorable part was having a Condor
follow me as I dropped down out of some foothills. It flew off to one side
about 30 meters above and tracked me for about 500 meters down the road. No
chance of a photo. It must have decided I was too scrawny to eat and soared off
to look for better pickings. They are a large bird with a wing span not far off
that of an Albatross.
We went into San
Rafael to try and find a chain for the BMW. No luck.
It would have to be Mendoza ,
a place I wanted to by-pass.
Stopped for the night in the Municipal Camp grounds. Very
little sleep had due to wandering dogs barking and howling all night. Again the
facilities were run down.
San Rafael - Mendoza - San Juan
We had problems getting fuel. Most fuel stations had not
received deliveries so we took off watching our consumption and reserve
indicators flashing. We were carrying back-up fuel.
We arrived at Mendoza
about midday. The address for the chain was on the far side of the city center,
which Ron entered into his GPS and told it to GO THERE. Well it tried but
someone needs GPS training as it took has straight through the city in rush
hour traffic. The temps were that high we were melting in our bike gear with
the bike cooling fans screaming away. A few times I got the glimpse of an
elevated motorway that would have taken us to the same destination…grrrr. We
made it as far as the city square when the BMW cooling fan seized and it turned
itself into very expensive kettle. Heaps of people came to Rons aid while I
parked on the pavement and watched some high-school students performing dance
routines between changing lights to raise funds for there sports teams. A young
chap on a scooter pointed out where the BMW dealer was, saying “it’s easy to
get to. You just take that motorway over there!!!!” Back to where we started. He
helpfully navigated us through the one-way system onto the motor-way. BMW
changed the fan motor then it was all on for another try for a chain.
Eventually the appropriate shop was located. I was in the
shop door watching our bikes and got distracted by someone talking to me. A
shopkeeper across the road started yelling at us. I assumed his was annoyed at
our bikes blocking his shop front. NO his was yelling that a couple of
boys has nicked my helmet. The chap I was talking to was off on his scooter
like a shot. I ripped off round the block the other way. No luck for me but
Daniel caught them 2 blocks away, grabbed my helmet, and issued some quick
justice on the spot. At least I had my helmet back, even if I was reluctant to
put my head in it after all the heat today.
We had had enough of Mendoza
and headed north to San Juan .
We stayed in a super tidy guarded camp ground. No dogs barking but we were
entertained by students playing tango type beat music on a huge sound system.
They were well behaved and no problem at all. The music was quite catchy and
you would find yourself tangoing to the shower and back, and foot tapping was
irresistible.
What a change. The route takes you through changing land
forms and a great bike road. The section from Villa Union to Chilecito is a must
do. The original road, still in use, has been blown and hacked through large
gorge. Only 3.8 meters wide, twisty, with lots of tight blind bends for a lot of it, so watch out for on-coming traffic
and do not make any mistakes on the bends! There is a new road being carved
through the same area.
Chilecito is set in the foothills elevated above the desert
to the east. It a little like a Wild West town. The surrounding terrain is
eroded, steep land. In its heyday it boasted a cable-way which ran from the
town, at 1200 masl, to a mine some 40 km away at a height of 4600 masl. Men and
equipment took four hours in a cable bucket to get to the mine. Puts the
Denniston incline into perspective!
Camped in a small camping area above town for the night.
Hey…More music…and a green parrot population that kicked up quite a din at dusk
and dawn.
Chilecito – Cafayate
Similar terrain as the previous 2 days until you get closer
to Cafayate. The area is far more fertile with sandy soils and irrigation
channels to water fields. The town is vibrant tourist hotspot due to the
abundance of wineries within walking/cycling distance the town centre. The wines
are excellent and cheap by NZ standards. The central square is surrounded by curb-side
eateries, cafes and a mini malls/flea markets with local artisans offerings.
The surrounding sandy hillsides have been sculpted by wind
and rain to leave remarkable formations.
Tues 27Nov.
After a 2 night stop in Cafayate is was off to Salta . This time to fit a
chain to the Tenere.
The road is made for bikes running out of Cafayate through
gorges and out to green cultivated land towards Salta .
With photo stops and traffic it took
about 3 hours which had us in Salta
about 1230. Unfortunately everything closes at 1300 and opens again at 1700. “you
will have to leave your bike and come back at 2000.” So we are now around the
corner at a backpackers and will collect the bikes tomorrow before making a
dash towards the Chile
border.
Cafayate Police demonstrating safe riding practices!
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