Wed 7 November

INTO ARGENTINA

After reading about delays getting through borders we decided to get to the border earlish. So refueled and with all paperwork in hand we arrived at the Chile exit point at 09:15. At 09:30 we were officially kicked out of Chile into no-mans land.

After a few kms we arrived at the Argentine entry point.

Passports and paper work handed over to Immigration and Customs…Where are you headed? Stamp Stamp and we were out of there. Done and dusted in 15 mins. The young customs officers seemed more interested in the bikes and our mods. 

Very straight-forward.

From there it is approx 60 km to Perito Moreno continuing along the south side of Lago General Carrera which has been transformed into Lago Buenos Aires now that we are in Argentina. Of immediate note is the vast improvement of road surface, now a high grade bitumen seal, and a change in landscape from steep hills and peaks to rolling high country plain with grasses and sage type scrub.

    LAGO BUENOS AIRES

Perito Moreno was the breakfast stop. After being warned by virtually everyone we met to buy fuel wherever you see it we topped off the bikes again and set off south on Ruta 40.

Ruta 40 is rapidly becoming a fully paved road. Road works on a massive scale are on going. So the ride south takes you from new seal to diversional side roads which parallel very tempting new seal….Which we just had to try out!!

Even on the side road we had a good run, checking out the 20 k/hr signs as we shot past at 90 – 100.

There was a blustery side wind, but nothing worse than we get in NZ.

Scenery does not vary, so somewhat boring after the first 200km. The local wildlife do tend to keep you awake by erratically diving across the road as you approach.

    

We stopped for the night 420km later at Gorbenador Gregores. A small settlement originally set up as a service town for early travelers. The town appears to be in rebuild mode with many sections cleared and new buildings under construction. We were unable to ascertain whether the rebuild has been induced by natural disaster or local policy to clean up the town. Large cracks in a number of remaining buildings suggest it may be the former.

The main street is adorned with an ancient steam powered tractor and historic type artwork. Also a man on a horse which I believe was the first resident. A European immigrant who set up as a blacksmith. He would repair anything passing by. (shades of Otago Gold Rush days)

Thursday 8 November

Gregores to El Calafate

Underway again. Same scenery with the first 150km all road works.

However just t make it interesting the renowned Patagonia winds put in an appearance. On the raised bitumen road lean angles to remain straight were extreme.

On gravel sections it was not uncommon to be forced from the far right to the far left.

One large tank-slap event occurred but recovered by shear luck and the bike stopped before it launched into a road-works cut for a large culvert.

It was a particularly tiring days ride. The wind chill effect was increasing as we approaching the end of the days ride. When Lago Argentine came into view it was not surprising to see icebergs floating along the shoreline. These possible originate from the Glacier Moreno and blown down the lake. It was good to get to El Calafate for a respite from the wind and a welcome cup of coffee. 

After locating the Visitors center, and ascertaining accommodation options we went to find a bed only to be flagged down by a motorist …. (you looking for a Hostel? We have one on the foreshore)

So here we are in a new hostel, Hostel Aves Del Lago, room to ourselves for Arg$100 (NZ$12.50@). Just sitting at the front window, out of the wind, cup of tea in hand, waiting  for a blue iceberg to cruise past.