Torres del Paine to Punta Arenas

Sunday

It was difficult to leave Torres Del Paine National park.

Stopping one night and not spending a few days exploring more of the parks hidden jems and trails was disappointing but we have to make tracks south. As the park employee said, we had picked the best day. Not much wind today - only recorded 110 - 120 kph. Next 2 days they were expecting strong winds!!!

So it was time to pack up, wish a group of Belgians in two Landrover campers good luck and set sail for Punta Arenas via Puerto Natales.

The Belgians had been beset with issues in their new rigs. One had major gearbox problems and they were limping their way to Santiago. Only 3500 km to go!

Our bikes have been running like clockwork and tyres holding up well so far. The only negative is the BMW 800 has a small fuel tank which usually runs dry before the Tenere hits reserve. Fuels consumption for both bikes is the same. (22km/litre)

The ride to Puerto Natales was another memorable trip. Great road and scenery. We arrived to hot temperatures and nil wind. Stopped for coffee on the waterfront and took in the view. Also entertaining to watch the tourists and locals checking the bikes and taking photo's.

Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas is fairly ordinary and an introduction to landscape we were to see a lot of  over the coming few days.

Punta Arenas itself is a lively center with plenty to do and see. We booked into the ..................Hostel. Another endeavour with character. The owners arranged off-street parking for the bikes at another establishment a street away, which was fine. We were shown to our room, going around the back, up 2 flights of stairs and entering the roof space where additional bedrooms and kitchens had been fitted. Took a few trips to get all our gear up the Bat loft. Next morning we just threw everything off the balcony.
When fitting out the roof-space for accommodation no thought was given to strengthen the rafters/floor beams. Novel going to the bathroom, where standing outside you could open the door. However you could not close it once inside the bathroom unless you temporarily launched yourself whilst pulling the door to.
The view afforded by such lofty heights was overlooking part of the town out to the straits, oh and the high-rise cemetery across the road!
The up-side was the included breakfast. Best spread we have seen so far!

We spent some time investigating the shopping center, dining etc. The plan for tomorrow is to take a ferry across to Provenir.

Monday

The plans have started to unravel slightly.
Firstly the daily ferry to Provenir, presumable in celebration of our arrival, is not running today. Nor will it operate on Thursday we are informed. So it will be a 170 km ride to the East to catch another ferry across to Puerto Espora. There are 2 ferries that cross every 45 mins.

While packing up Ron mentioned my top-box was moving about more than normal. Closer inspection revealed the rear mount was cracked and required welding. A local service station pointed us at the nearby exhaust shop and arrangements were made to weld a reinforcing plate over the offending cracks.

The "shop", located on a rough pot-holed street, was a dingy shed with a large pit and a lot of hand-made equipment worthy of an iron foundry (or Rons' shed). A gentleman duly appear from the interior, understood what was required and disappeared  into a back room with my top box. Ron and I were entertained for the next hour, standing at the door, watching Ireland beat RSA on the TV, watching the antics of the workers we could see and listening to the beating - grinding and welding noises emanating from the back room. All turned out well in the end and the cost, virtually nothing.

Off to catch the ferry. No mucking around on these Ferries. No sooner has the ramp hit the shore trucks and buses are driving off. Last one off and the waiting traffic drives straight on. All the time the ferry is operating at full trust just to stay in place due to the tidal flow through the channel. You pay once on board. A twenty minute crossing with the bow headed into the tidal flow and side-slipped to the other side.

WELCOME to TIERRA DEL FUEGO
We rode on the the Border post and stopped at a local Hotel.

Tuesday

Through the border crossing in no time at all and on the way to Ushuaia.
Initially the landscape is barren plains gradually changing to scrub type vegetation which develops to full forest cover as you approach Ushuaia.

Ushuaia is in sheltered bay and just hums with activity. The tourist traffic is just starting to pick up with long distance ferries and cruise ships arriving. The Beagle channel is a constant flow of tourist charter boats, along with fishing vessels and the ever present Navy.

The Tourist info office pointed us at a hostel which would have off street parking. We lucked in. The owner, a keen motocross nut and race team supporter, had our bikes in his garage in a flash. We stopped 2 nights to catch up on the necessary maintenance / clothes cleaning etc.

And of course the obligatory photo to prove we made it.

As for Ushuaia, it is an amazing place. If you want to know more start planning your trip.,and allow plenty of time here